Search Results

🚗 Blyde River Canyon Blyde River Canyon, the third-largest canyon in the world. A you stand on the precipice, the sight of the lush, green canyon juxtaposed against the red and orange sandstone cliffs is nothing short of awe-inspiring. The Blyde River Canyon is one of the largest green canyons in the world, and it's easy to see why. Its lush vegetation, pristine river, and towering cliffs make it a must-see stop on the Panorama Route. Three Rondavels The Three Rondavels, Also known as the Three Sisters, are a trio of enormous, freestanding rock formations that resemble traditional African huts, known as rondavels. These massive stone pillars were formed over millions of years through erosion, and they now stand guard over the Blyde River Canyon. The canyon itself is one of the largest green canyons in the world, and it's estimated to be around 25 kilometres in length. As you approach the viewpoint, you can't help but be mesmerised by the sheer size and majesty of these towering rock structures. They rise to heights of approximately 700 metres (2300 feet), creating an impressive backdrop to the deep, verdant canyon below. The swirling rock patterns, ranging from shades of white and red to deep brown, are a testament to the geological forces that shaped this landscape. A Cultural Connection The Three Rondavels are not only a geological marvel but also hold cultural significance for the indigenous people of the region. The Blyde River Canyon is located in the Drakensberg Mountains, and this area is steeped in history and mythology. According to local folklore, the Three Rondavels represent three beautiful sisters who were turned to stone by a jealous suitor. The formations are not only a symbol of geological wonder but also serve as a reminder of the rich cultural tapestry of South Africa. Exploring the Views The best way to take in the Three Rondavels is to visit the main viewpoint along the Panorama Route. From here, you're treated to a breathtaking panoramic view of the canyon and the iconic rock formations. As the sun moves across the sky, the colours and shadows on the rocks change, creating a visual spectacle that photographers and nature enthusiasts will truly appreciate. Be sure to have your camera ready to capture this iconic scene. Gallery Bourke's Luck Potholes - Nature's Sculptures, Unveiling the Geologic Marvel Bourke's Luck Potholes is a geological formation that has been carved over millennia by the relentless force of water. Situated in the Mpumalanga province of South Africa, this natural masterpiece is part of the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve and sits at the confluence of the Treur and Blyde Rivers. As you approach the site, you'll be greeted by the sweet serenade of cascading waterfalls, setting the tone for the enchanting experience that awaits. The name "Bourke's Luck" is steeped in folklore, attributed to a prospector named Tom Bourke who, during the gold rush, predicted that he would find gold in the vicinity. Unfortunately for Bourke, he never found his fortune, but he did stumble upon something even more precious: these exquisite potholes. A Geological Symphony The primary attraction of Bourke's Luck Potholes is the remarkable potholes themselves. These cylindrical, swirling rock formations have been painstakingly carved out by centuries of swirling whirlpools and waterborne sand and pebbles. The effect is a stunning display of geological artistry, where the natural colors and textures of the rock are juxtaposed with the crystalline waters that flow through them. The smooth, round basins and cylindrical potholes come in various sizes and depths, and they create a striking contrast with the surrounding red sandstone cliffs. It's as if nature has been sculpting its own masterpieces for centuries, leaving you to admire its work in sheer wonder. Echo Caves The Echo Caves were a fascinating side trip. Explore the underground wonders of the Echo Caves, where intricate stalactites and stalagmites create a mystical subterranean world that seemed like something out of a fantasy novel. The guide shared stories of the caves' history, making it a journey through time. Abel Erasmus Pass and JG Strijdom Tunnel As we drive along the Panorama Route, we'll traverse the Abel Erasmus Pass, a winding mountain road that offers panoramic views of the lowveld below. It's a journey through lush greenery and rugged terrain. Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre As you approach the end of your Panorama Route adventure, don't miss the Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, a place dedicated to the care and rehabilitation of injured and orphaned wildlife. Here, you can learn about the region's unique fauna, interact with animals, and support the conservation efforts being undertaken by this remarkable organization. Learn about the conservation efforts and get up close to rehabilitated wildlife, making a positive impact on South Africa's precious biodiversity. The Panorama Route between Sabie and Moholoholo is a journey that takes you through some of South Africa's most magnificent landscapes and geological wonders. From majestic canyons to enchanting waterfalls, rich history to awe-inspiring geological formations, this route promises a memorable and enriching experience that leaves travellers with unforgettable memories. If you're planning a trip to South Africa, be sure to add the Panorama Route to your itinerary for a truly unforgettable adventure from start to finish! TheDuo.

Graskop Graskop is a charming town, a small town with a big heart, with its lush forests, cascading waterfalls, and dramatic cliffs, Graskop is a destination that offers a unique blend of natural beauty and outdoor adventure. The town's friendly atmosphere and vibrant arts scene make it a joy to explore. Graskop Lift and Motitsi Falls: Get a bird's-eye view of the lush forests and waterfalls of Graskop by taking the Graskop Lift. Motitsi Falls, with its cool plunge pool, is a hidden gem in this area, perfect for a refreshing dip. Africa Silk Farm - Discover the magic of silk production Next up we headed to Africa Silk Farm to witness the entire silk-making process, from caterpillar to fabric, and take home a few pieces of the farm's luxurious silk products. Africa Silk Farm is a family-owned business that prides itself on its commitment to ethical and sustainable silk production. As you step onto the farm, you'll be struck by the sight of mulberry trees, which play a crucial role in the silkworms' diet and the silk production process. The Silk Farm Experience Guided Tours: The best way to explore the farm is by taking a guided tour, led by knowledgeable and friendly guides. They will walk you through every stage of silk production, from the nurturing of silkworms to the weaving of intricate patterns. The Silkworm Life Cycle Tour The tour begins with a fascinating insight into the life cycle of silkworms. You'll witness silkworms at different stages of their development and learn about their unique role in producing silk. Silk Extraction: One of the highlights of the visit is watching skilled artisans extract the delicate silk threads from silkworm cocoons. This intricate process is a testament to the farm's dedication to preserving traditional silk-making techniques. Spinning and Weaving: After witnessing silk extraction, you'll be taken to the spinning and weaving section, where you can observe artisans meticulously turning the fine threads into exquisite fabrics. The attention to detail and craftsmanship is truly remarkable. Gift Shop: The farm has a charming gift shop where you can purchase an array of silk products, including clothing, scarves, and accessories. These make for fantastic souvenirs, and the quality of the silk is impeccable. Mulberry Garden: Don't forget to explore the lovely mulberry garden, where you can pick and taste fresh mulberries while enjoying the tranquility of the surroundings. Whether you're a textile enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply someone looking to explore a hidden gem along this route, the Africa Silk Farm offers an unforgettable journey into the world of silk. Pinnacle Rock and Waterfall: Our journey continues to Pinnacle Rock, a striking quartzite formation that stands like a sentinel overlooking the Blyde River Canyon. The views from here are already jaw-dropping, giving you a taste of the stunning scenery that awaits further along the route. God's Window: Where Earth Meets Sky The Panorama Route is famous for its breathtaking viewpoints, and God's Window is a highlight. God's Window is a place where nature's beauty reaches its zenith. This iconic viewpoint offers a breathtaking vista that will leave you awestruck and yearning for more. Imagine standing on the edge of a precipice, gazing out over a boundless sea of lush, rolling hills, dense forests, and waterfalls, with the endless expanse of the Lowveld stretching out before you. God's Window, part of the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, is known for its unparalleled natural beauty. The viewpoint stands at an altitude of over 1,800 meters (5,900 feet), offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The Lowveld stretching into the horizon is surrounded by lush subtropical vegetation and rolling hills that create a mesmerizing spectacle. The viewpoint is aptly named "God's Window" because it feels like you're standing at the very edge of the Earth, gazing into the heavens. Be prepared to be left speechless by the sheer grandeur of this place. God's Window also has deep cultural and historical significance. The local Shangaan people consider this place to be sacred and believe it to be the site where God comes to rest his eyes. The breathtaking views and ethereal beauty here certainly lend credence to that belief. Wonder View: As you continue along the route, make a stop at Wonder View, which offers an elevated vantage point for a different perspective on the surroundings. On a clear day, you can see for miles. One of the most enchanting aspects of the Panorama Route is its abundance of stunning waterfalls. Here are two more that you won't want to miss; Lisbon & Berlin Falls. These twin waterfalls, Berlin and Lisbon Falls, offer a striking juxtaposition of two distinct cascades in close proximity. The sight and sound of the water plunging into the pools below are mesmerising. Lisbon Falls: This 94-meter high cascade is a wonder to behold, surrounded by lush vegetation. The spray from the falls creates a refreshing mist that adds to the magical atmosphere. Berlin Falls: Just a short drive from Lisbon Falls, you'll find Berlin Falls, which drops dramatically into a circular basin. The surrounding cliffs are shrouded in verdant foliage, making it an excellent photo spot and the best ending to a day of adventure, learning and exploration! Up Next... We continue to explore the Blyde River Canyon!

South Africa is a land of breathtaking landscapes, from rolling savannas to rugged coastlines, but perhaps one of the most enchanting regions in the country is the Panorama Route. Nestled in the northeastern province of Mpumalanga, this scenic route offers a cornucopia of natural wonders and historic sites, including dramatic viewpoints, lush forests, and a series of stunning waterfalls. In October 2020, during our 13 months of nomadic living, we hired a car (which we lovingly named 'Sunflower Power Bomb') from Johannesburg and our Panorama Route exploration adventure began! 🚗 Sabie to Pilgrim's Rest Sabie: Gateway to the Panorama Route Our journey begins in the charming town of Sabie, nestled in the heart of the Mpumalanga province. Surrounded by lush forests and rolling hills, Sabie is a perfect starting point for your exploration of the Panorama Route. Before hitting the road, make sure to grab a cup of local coffee and indulge in some freshly baked treats at one of the town's delightful cafes. South Africa's Panorama Route is not just about grand vistas; it's also home to a series of beautiful waterfalls. Sabie Falls, Bridal Veil, and Lone Creek Falls are like nature's jewels, cascading gracefully through the forest. Lone Creek Falls: Our adventure begins with Lone Creek Falls, a stunning 68-meter waterfall set amidst indigenous vegetation and an enchanting curtain of water tucked away in the forest just outside Sabie. The short walk to the falls is a tranquil experience in itself, with the sound of birdsong and the scent of pine in the air. Lone Creek Falls is a tall, slender waterfall that tumbles gracefully into a crystal-clear pool, creating a serene setting for relaxation and photography. Bridal Veil Falls: Next on our list is Bridal Veil Falls, a short drive from Sabie. This 70-meter tall waterfall resembles a bridal veil, and the spray from the cascading water creates a magical atmosphere. You can enjoy a leisurely hike to the viewpoint or even get closer to the falls if you're feeling adventurous. Be prepared for the refreshing mist that greets you as you approach, a welcome respite on a warm day. Mac-Mac Falls: Venturing further into the Sabie region, you'll find Mac-Mac Falls. This double-tiered waterfall is a sight to behold. The cascades plummet from a height of 65 meters, making them one of the more imposing falls in the area. There's a picnic site nearby, so you can enjoy a meal while marveling at the falls or take a dip in the cool mountain water. Sabie Falls: Last but not least, we visited Sabie Falls, located within the town itself. This charming, easily accessible waterfall is perfect for a peaceful morning or afternoon walk. The falls are framed by lush greenery and rock formations, creating a serene ambiance that's ideal for reflection and relaxation. Maria Shire Falls: Venture a bit off the beaten path to discover Maria Shire Falls. This hidden gem is a tranquil spot for a peaceful break, with a small waterfall framed by lush greenery. Natural Bridge: Nature's artistry is on full display at the Natural Bridge, an incredible rock formation that spans the Blyde River. Walk across the bridge for a unique perspective of the landscape. Pilgrim's Rest - Explore a village frozen in time Pilgrim's rest, a quaint and picturesque village that seems to have been frozen in time. A living museum of a bygone era, is a place where the history of the gold rush comes to life. Stroll along its streets lined with restored 19th-century buildings, and immerse yourself in this enchanting destination that has captured the hearts of travellers from around the world. Pilgrim's Rest was founded in 1873, and its origins are firmly rooted in the South African gold rush. It was originally a gold mining town, and the legacy of this era is palpable throughout the village. Walking through its streets is like stepping back in time, with well-preserved buildings, antique shops, and historical markers at every turn. The main street is lined with charming, colonial-style buildings that house restaurants, shops, and museums. Be sure to visit the Transport Museum and the Central Garage, which provides a fascinating insight into how the gold prospectors, who once flocked to this area, got around. Pilgrim's Rest offers a variety of accommodation options, including charming guesthouses and lodges. Staying in one of these historic establishments is an experience in itself, as they have retained their old-world charm while providing modern amenities for a comfortable stay. Don't miss the opportunity to savor South African cuisine in Pilgrim's Rest. Many restaurants in the village offer traditional dishes, such as bobotie, potjiekos, and boerewors, providing a taste of local flavors. Pair your meal with a South African beer or wine to complete the experience. Pilgrim's Rest is a destination like no other. It's a place where history is alive in every cobblestone, every vintage storefront, and every story shared by the locals. A visit to Pilgrim's Rest in South Africa will transport you to a time when prospectors and pioneers shaped the nation's destiny, leaving behind a legacy that continues to captivate visitors to this day. Stay tuned for Pt.2 as we make our way through Graskop to the Blyde !

"...without admitting it, I’m genuinely scared." Its the 28th of December 2016 and we are having dinner at a Jozi spot. We’ve just spent the entire day packing everything from our two bed apartment in Fourways onto the back of a van and into a storage container. We are tired, elated and anxious all at once, because what lies ahead of us is nothing short of the longest journey of our lives. We spend the rest of the evening surrounded by family and friends chatting about the challenges that await us on the road ahead. The next day we wake up, the bright summertime sunshine blindingly through the curtains. I slowly raise my head up off the pillow. We are extremely hung over, hungry and have woken up way later than planned. Deep down inside both asking ourselves, 'how the hell did we get to this moment?' You might be wondering exactly what is 'this moment' is... Well for the last few months we have basically been setting ourselves up to move from Jozi to Nairobi. We have done this trip a myriad times over the last few years, always by flight, never by road. This time though, not only are we travelling by road, we are attempting it specifically on a motorbike. Ahead of us lies over 4000km of hard riding. My cousin helps with breakfast to get us energised. We kit up, he helps us load up the bike and we say our goodbyes. He then says, 'Ntwana, when you change your mind, you are welcome back here, until you get a flight of course'... With these words in mind, we go buy some last minute gear on our way out of Jozi... We buy the following; ⁃ a spare pair of riding gloves. ⁃ a helmet intercom system. So we can communicate inside our helmets. ⁃ a summer riding jacket because it’s the middle of summer in the southern hemisphere. At around 1 pm we make phone calls to our families and set off. The idea was to leave at 9 am... The weather is glorious, a bright sunny day, no wind, not a single cloud in the sky. The love of my life closely nuzzled against me, our minimal belongings squeezed into the recently mounted top box and a few items of clothing folded into tiny parcels in our saddle bags. The machine of choice is a Kawasaki KLR 650cc. We quickly joined the N1 highway heading towards Pretoria with the plan to cross the border into Botswana before the sun sets. Two hours into the ride we see some ominous looking clouds circling ahead. Within 30 minutes those clouds are right above us. The heavens open up and it begins to POUR! We reckon if we hit the gas we should clear this high-veld thunderstorm within 20 odd minutes. Enough time to dry up, get warm under the summer sun rays and quickly find ourselves through the small town of Mokopane and off to the Groblersbrug border gate. We soon realise that this storm is no passing event, instead, it’s a massive hailstorm that will have us change our path after we realize we are no longer going to make it to the Groblersbrug border before it closes for the day. So we instead head straight to Polokwane. We have been on the road for only 5 hours but we have been riding in the worst rain storm I’ve seen in the 4 years since I began riding bikes. What was to be a trip of a lifetime has quickly become a NIGHTMARE! We are soaked from head to toe. The storm is so intense I’m struggling to see 20m in front of the bike. So without admitting it, I’m genuinely scared. Not only for my own safety but that of my precious cargo on the pillion seat. As we pass under an overhead bridge, I switch on the helmet comms and ask my Ride Or Die: “Hey. Think we should pull over and stop for a bit?” . . . . . She responds, “If we stop, will we get any less wet and cold?” …. This is one of those moments in a relationship when we both know that this question begs no response and so we mute our comms and keep riding. After about 3-4 hours of rain, we eventually pull into Polokwane.

As we enter Polokwane we spot a Hotel, and we pull in. It’s still raining. We are soaked from the top of our heads right down to the last item of clothing. There’s water literally running out of every crevice and skin fold. Everything we are carrying with us is wet. EVERY. SINGLE. THING! I climb off the Fat Pig (the bike literally sounds like a wild boar, thanks to the ‘BRAAAAP’ noise emitted by the massive exhaust pipe howling behind us) and walk into the reception area. I ask if they have any open rooms given its 3 days before New Years eve, peak tourism season. The kind lady behind the desk types furiously on her keyboard and says;“You’re in luck, we do!” and without a second thought about cost or any other details I respond, we’ll take it! As soon as the transaction is done I look down and see that I have created a wading puddle with a 15 meter stream of water that leads out the reception door. Drenched isn’t even the word to describe it. That night, the love of my life, The Eagle and I unpack every clothing item we have and ask the reception desk to kindly dry them in the laundry room. We hang the rest of our soggy riding kit on the old school built-in wall heater in our room and jump in the shower. NEVER, have I ever had such an amazing hot shower. We order room service and sit patiently waiting in bed. The meal arrives and we sit and eat while watching TV. We call no-one, we text no-one and we hardly speak until we have eaten and are fully thawed out. I turn to The Eagle and before I can even mouth a word, we both instinctively ask ourselves… “How the FUCK did we get to THIS point?” ... We both agree to get a good night’s sleep and to decide on what we do early next morning. It’s 5am and the reception desk gives us our wake up call. We wake up, check the windows and see that it’s STILL raining. We shower, kit up and go fetch our clothes on the way out the hotel. The staff is kind enough to wrap our breakfast into a take-away road pack, and they wish us well on the next leg of the journey. As we mount everything back on the bike, we make eye contact and she flashes me a smile. I tell her that we are still in SA and my cousin has already said we are more than welcome to come back, and without any hesitation she kisses me and says, “the GPS says we can make the border in just under 3 hours.” As always I am immediately reminded of how much strength I draw from this beautiful and powerful being. I turn the bike on and we share another kiss as we point the bike towards the SA-Botswana border! The journey to mapenzi, the elusive long ride to black love has indeed begun and we are sitting in first class seats with nothing obstructing our view, except ourselves. As we ride through the darkness of early morning, I’m reminded of what mountains love can move…

It’s 5am and we are gunning it at full speed from Polokwane to the Groblersbrug border gate. The journey is about 206km. This means about two and half hours of thinking time. Its fascinating how much time the open road gives one to reflect and question their own actions. The first thought on both our minds was how emotionally prepared were we for the remaining 4100km given the first day’s rain-fest? So occasionally we throw a concerned glance towards the skies and prayed for a few hours of dry roads. Inside my helmet I’m busy thinking about how we got here. So let me rewind a bit. A few years before this trip we made our way from Benoni on the East Rand of Johannesburg to Victoria Falls using an overland truck. Packed in with all sorts of strangers from all over the country, all headed for the Victoria Falls Carnival. The one apparent thing was how few young Black South Africans travel outside the country. We immediately decided from that moment on that we needed to live the change we would like to see; namely to travel, live and experience more of our own continent. It had become instantly apparent how uninformed a lot of young South Africans were about the rest of the continent. Fast forward to January 2016, and we had now traveled to various countries across the continent. We would fly out for a weekend in Uganda, a road trip to Namibia to go sandboarding, a flight to Zambia to go bungee jumping over the mighty Zambezi River, but afterwards we would always be travelling back to the comfort and familiarity of Johannesburg. The one thought that stayed with both us was: “Is this what we really mean by pan-Africanism?” One weekend here, maybe two weeks there at best, in places we would never return to again? When would we learn to speak Pemba? When would we know to stay long enough in a place to learn the difference between the Mijikenda of the Swahili coastal towns from the Nilotes of the Western Kenya Rift Valley? So when 2016 began, we committed to living out a freedom that many had fought and died for. The opportunity for us, as young black Africans to break down these barriers that were setup to divide us and prevent us from learning about each other. This bike trip would be the first time we go on holiday on a way ticket with no return date. We would be leaving our support structure behind; our friends, our jobs in corporate and most importantly our families. As we approached the Groblersbrug Border gate I remember feeling braver than ever before, knowing that we had just passed the 10% mark of the road trip. We chose to go through Botswana as the ever busy Beitbridge border between Zimbabwe and SA is always a mess over the December period. We exited SA with no qualms and entered smoothly into Botswana. The plan was to ride over 500km through Botswana and enter Zimbabwe at the Kazungula border gate then ride through Bulawayo all the way to Victoria Falls town. We had already lost half a days travel with us leaving hung over and late on day one. As we rode into Botswana the first thing we noted was that Botswana was celebrating its 50th year of independence. It was amazing to me to think that SA was only 22 odd years old when our nearest neighbor had been celebrating the ability to determine their own path for nearly a quarter century longer than we had self determination. We flew through Palapye and quickly onto Francistown, a town we had camped in for two nights over December 2013. The roads in Botswana had wide lanes, well marked road signs and were extremely well built. So we made up a lot of lost time. We hit the Zim/Botswana border by 2pm. We were about 1300km into the trip now. Only 3100km to go… then the plan started to fall apart again!

t’s the 30th of December 2016. From the onset our plan was to ride the N1 from Jozi north, through Pretoria and onto Bela Bela where we would then take the R33 through Groblersburg Border Post into Botswana. We would then ride directly to Palapye and camp there for the night. Having lost half a day we thought we could use day 2 to make it up by passing through both Palapye and then quickly onto Francistown where we would eat lunch, then head onto the border between Zimbabwe and Botswana. This would lead us into Bulawayo, the second largest city of Zimbabwe with enough daylight for us to make it into Vic Falls town by night fall. BUT as soon as we hit the Plumtree/ Kazungula border between Zim and Bots, we knew that our plans were dashed. It took about an hour to get out of Botswana and another 3 hours to get into Zimbabwe. We still had to head for Bulawayo from the border. It was already 5pm by then The amazing thing about African border gates is how much they will humble you. You can kick, scream, fight and throw tantrums…but the amount of time it will take you to get through the border gate, is the amount of time it will take you to get through the border gate. So you learn patience, you learn to enjoy people watching, you speak to your travel companion, you plan the next leg of the journey, you dream about your future plans and then you come back to reality and see you have only advanced about four people out of the 800 people in front of you. Then you wish you had never bothered to leave home. The thing about travel, especially with your life partner is how with each trip you reveal layers about yourself. Truthful, honest layers. There comes a time when you travel long distance together where you don’t care to pretend to be nice. Where you don’t care to use pleasantries anymore. Where hunger brings out the worst in you and you speak only in hand signals and facial expressions. The challenges of the road will have you forgetting that when you left home you spoke to each other in the language of love. With respect. With a certain sensitivity, humility and care. Those very fundamentals all come into question when you have been standing for 4 hours, when your last meal was a cold take away lunch eaten in the parking lot of a mall in Francistown, and washed down with warm water from a dusty road side kiosk. As we stand in that immigration queue I’m also quickly reminded of how, with each travel and each honest introspective travel moment one faces on the road, you see a change in yourself. You see a change in how you relate to others and see a change in how you and your travel partner see each-other. For us, travel has always, brought us closer together in the end, as we have learnt the strength of our unity and have experienced many moments where all we had was each other and that, that is always enough. With this in mind, we finally hit the front of the line and zip into Zim. It’s around 5pm and we are greeted by beautifully laid tarmac with glorious lush vegetation on either side of the road. The sunset lighting is epic, the road new to us, and the weather is outstanding! We enjoy the rush of the wind, the howl of the exhaust and each-other’s company as we chat about the frustrations of the past border but excitedly discuss what the road ahead holds for us as we enter Bulawayo. We are best friends again. We drive into Bulawayo at sunset, we have no place to stay as we should have been 500 odd Kilometres ahead of where we find ourselves, but since day one we have been chasing an unattainable schedule, so we are slowly realising that we had a massively unrealistic plan. To be honest, throughout our entire relationship we have planned our travels around unrealistic ideas, and so here goes another one! As much as the trip so far has been a shock to the system, Bulawayo is another shock on its own. It's the end of 2016 and Zimbabwe is going through a financial crisis. Most places were not taking debit cards, almost all ATM’s were out of service or money, we have no rands to exchange and neither do we have dollars. Instead the one and only ATM working in the entire CBD area has a limit of 60 dollars per day. We see so much of the economic ruin of Bulawayo in that one evening and I remember thinking Zimbabwe cannot last much longer with such conditions especially in the 2nd biggest city. We can only imagine how worse things must be in the capital, Harare. As I write this piece with 2020 hindsight, I reflect on how eventually the inevitable came to pass with the removal of long standing Zimbabwean President Mugabe and how not much has changed even though the people of Zimbabwe were filled with hope brought by the change in leadership and the new dispensation... We eventually find a place to shelter for the night and get some food and beers in the system before yet another early morning wake up call...a new dawn, a new adventure awaits.

Its NEW YEARS EVE 2016! We wake up bright and early, enjoy a quick and dirty two star hotel breakfast before we head from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls Town. A quant little town on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. It’s home to one side of the Majestic “Mosi Wa Tunya”, as it's known to locals, meaning 'The Smoke That Thunders'. The name comes from the ever present cloud above the falls that can be seen from miles away. It never goes away, same like the constant RUMBLE of the sound of billions of liters of water pounding the rocks below as the Mighty Zambezi River shows its Zambian passport and passes into Zimbabwe. We love Vic Falls town, leading up to this trip we had been here together twice prior in the last few years and this time would be super special as we had a friend who flew from Jozi to meet us at the Victoria Falls Carnival for New Years. We have always been blessed with amazing friends who remain supportive of our adventures and this time our friend 'Meli' comes out to meet us and have his own adventure too. We miss the party train that goes through a game park all the while with DJ’s blazing tunes in every cabin as party animals jump up as high as the roof of the old school classic steam train, hang out the windows and watch elephants look on in wonder as the sun sets. We had called Meli and told him that we wouldn’t make it to the Falls by the evening of the 30th and that he should definitely go out and explore the evenings festival vibes . The ride to Vic Falls is amazing! We find these unoccupied mountain passes, lush with greenery and amazing views as far as the eye can see. The weather gods have finally seen us and they beam upon us with ray upon ray of golden African sunshine. The ever ready KLR (our weapon of choice for this trip) is loving it too as she THUMPS along mightily as we head into the most amazing descent into Victoria Falls town. We are met by a huge board sign that reads, 'welcome to Victoria Falls Town', we begin to see the cloud above the falls, as we edge close,r you can smell the humidity in the air. The warmth of the area, the hospitable nature of the locals as well as the excitement the entire town holds over the New Years period. The streets are teeming with all sorts of shades and accents. The GPS says we are about 500m from our BnB. Our excitement is palpable and as we turn the second last corner, low and behold, there’s Meli, casually walking the streets like a local! It’s been three full days on the road and we have not seen a familiar face since we left Jozi. The rush of joy and relief and the comfort of familiarity is so overwhelming. He points us on and we drive into the yard. We have stayed here once before, a few years ago in 2013. The owner/manager, a young guy around the same age we are, is glad to see us again. His recognisable face too gives us much joy. We change into summer gear and crack open some ice cold Zambezi beers. This is going to be home for the next two nights. We are beyond excited. In total we have covered about 1900km. We are thankful for travel mercies and the blessings from our ancestors. The truly overwhelming part of this whole experience we realise is that we aren’t the only ones going through the emotions. As soon as we settle in, and turn our phones back on, we see text messages, voice notes, online posts and pics, missed calls and voice messages, all wishing us well and keenly wanting an update on the journey thus far. As much as it’s us two against the open road and life itself, the best thing about family and friends is that you are never truly alone. We pack away the heavy bike gear for the next two days, and head out to party as we had back in the day when South Africa 'won' the World Cup 2010 bid. 'Phillip' is upon us again!

2nd Jan 2017. This day starts in Victoria Falls Town, Zimbabwe. After two solid days of amazing live performances, making new friends, bungee jumping, micro lighting, sundowner boat cruises while croc and hippo spotting, we bid Meli adieu, and pack all our belongings back on the bike. We strap into our riding gear, charge helmet comms, check tire pressure, oil and other vitals. We study the route plans and make sure we haven’t lost any important travel documents. The first leg of the ride sees us pass over the Zambezi River into Zambia. The land of the talented Chipolopolo, the national soccer team. Our plan is to leave the border town, gun it through the Victorian feeling town of Livingstone and head through Lusaka, the capital of Zambia for lunch before we lay our heads down in Kabwe, about 16km further north of Lusaka. As soon as we get onto the bike, at peak heat, we are yet again reminded that our party spirit knows no bounds and we clearly don’t learn. We are yet again hungover, extremely tired and full of if’s and but’s. Either way, a soldier must do what a soldier does. So we march on... Dear beloved Vic Falls, until next time. We zip past Livingstone and are firmly enroute to Lusaka. We arrive in Lusaka just before sunset and decide to call it a night. We are yet again caught by the rain as we approach Lusaka. By this time rain is no longer to be feared, but seen as an adversary to be conquered. Lusaka is a big city with lots of growth. Skyscrapers everywhere, malls there, shopping centers here, and construction as far as the eye can see. The city seems to have a buzz. We like it. Originally on this journey we were supposed to have had a second bike accompanying us, however due to the unforeseen, our good friend Andy couldn’t join. With that said, Andy is still so central to the journey in that as we fight to catch-up to our original schedule. He is continuously finding out where we are and changing our Air BnB bookings as we go. It’s an intricate game of tag between him and The Eagle, who is the planning, research & logistics manager of the trip. I on the other hand, focus on all things mechanical and road related. We check-in. We then go out in Lusaka and hit a few spots. It’s cold and rainy but we realize that we are just over the halfway mark. We are about 2400km into the journey now. The point where it would have still made sense to turn back has been surpassed. If we were to turn back now, it would take us longer to get home than it would to get to Kenya. So the only logical choice at this stage is to continue charging forward! We enjoy the night in Lusaka. We hit some cool spots, party it up, people watch, dance and act the fool. Even when we are alone we enjoy each others company immensely so we party like it ain’t a thang! We can’t believe how far we are without any real harm. There’s much to celebrate. The next day we wake up early, eat brekkie and shoot out again. The routine has now started to settle in; Wake up early. Ride hard. Absorb the sights, sounds & smells around us. Let the road take us in. Sleep. Repeat. We are riding roughly 550-700km per day weather and border dependent. The only thing is...we are now in unexplored territory. Although we have been to Palapye, Francistown, Vic Falls Town and even Livingstone in previous years, this is our first time biking this far together. Now as we head out of Lusaka and head towards Kabwe, our next milestone, we are chartering on unknown paths. We are the furthest we have been from home via road and we keep going further. The calls home start to mean more. The loved ones who message and check up on us begin to matter more deeply. The decisions we make on how fast we ride. How long the days should be. What routes do we take begin to matter more as uncertainty sets in. Uncertainty on a journey is a given, but our commitment to each-other and to our shared goal remains unwavering. So with the throttle on full gas, wind blowing and eyes wide open (Well atleast mine. I later learn someone was comfortable enough to take naps behind me while riding) we ride back to chest to go meet the rest of this adventure together. No family. Few friends. No idea what lies ahead! Oh...just when we thought we were beginning to get the hang of this whole thing....trouble brews ahead. Yet again…

3rd Jan 2018. Issa New Year already. From Lusaka to Kabwe is a breeze. Zambia has wide open lanes, strict road rules that are enforced like; “Trucks may not operate after 10pm and not before 5am.” This is a clever tactic by the government to ensure the roads remain safe from tired, fatigued truck drivers doing long haul missions. The road side stalls and kiosks are not allowed near the road. There must at all times, be a twenty meter distance from the road side and the nearest stall. You quickly notice the importance of such mundane rules as soon as you move from SADC (Southern African Development Community) to EAC (East African Community). I’ll elaborate later. Remember Zambia is a land locked country, so most trade, supply and demand is met through road transportation. We spend most of this day riding rain free and making up for lost time. Zambia is HUGE! It’s not wide, but it’s covers a lot of ground lengthwise. There’s three main provinces to note; Southern; Central and Northern province. As we leave Kabwe in central province our plan is to head all the way to Mpika in northern province. This leg of the journey begins one of our longest rides. The 2017 New Year is now officially over and we need to make it to Nairobi by Sunday 8th January 2017. This date holds a great deal of importance for us. For each full tank of petrol, our distance calculations work as follows: - Full tank - 350km - Roto Spare Tank - 100km - Total # of KM’s per ride without refueling: 450km. - Distance from Kabwe to Mpika 505km. According to google maps there were two petrols stations that would pop up between Kabwe & Mpika. However, as we were to find out, those stations were non-existent. This left us in a peculiar situation...we ran out of fuel, 60kms from Mpika but about 100kms from the last town. It was about 6:30pm and it was starting to get dark. There was no-one around us. Not even a village nearby. And then the worst was about to happen, the bike almost completely out of fuel, including the reserve side tank and we were about to be stuck in the middle of nowhere. As the sun began to set, all I could think to myself was; how did I get my beautiful Eagle here? And how are we going to get out of this one? So I radio my co-pilot announcing that we have eventually run out of fuel. She didn’t sound impressed, concerned nor amazed. This, I thought to myself...was most concerning. One must always feel some type of way about being stranded in the middle of nowhere. However my partner in life, as the rapper Lloyd Banks once said; “was cooler than the other side of the pillow.” I thank my ancestors for such a strong and confident life partner. Yet again, her sense of calm has me feeling like we could conquer anything. Stuck roadside we wait for a signal. Anything! And as soon as a truck coming back from the capital came into view, I immediately sized it up, tried to make out if there were any goods on board and then waved it down. The truck that eventually stopped was a flat bed with nothing on the back, having just come back from Kabwe with a full load of maize and was heading back home to Mpika, for the next shipment in the morning. I spotted them, and they spot me and I flagged them down. They obliged and I approached the driver with a sob story; “Good day brothers, are you well?” I asked. “Good, my brother”, they respond. “We have run out of petrol and are heading to Mpika, would you able to help us in any way?” I ask very politely, hoping and praying they come to our rescue. With no hesitation the driver and his co-pilot immediately disembark and help me lift the bike onto the flatbed. We are invited aboard. The Eagle and I swiftly jumped on board with the two fellas and we all get to chatting! We speak about African governments, democracy in Africa as well as its many interpretations. We speak about food security, war and liberation. We speak about road safety and the economics of the of transport industry. We speak about how maize production had moved from Zimbabwe to Zambia when global sanctions were put in place on Zim. The sanctions then, being due to the land expropriation policy at the time. We learn about how Zambia’s farming program was driving maize exports across Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Malawi now. We learn about how this gentleman and his colleague were making serious money from ‘feeding other Africans since the collapse of the Zimbabwean farming industry’, once even supposedly known as the bread basket of Africa. All this while the four of us shared the trucks front seating area recognising just how much we remain so much the same, and so do Africans across the diaspora. It reminds me of a famous phrase we used to employ back when I lived in Singapore “same same, but different lah”. The kind gents happen to live in the same area we were headed too. They drop us off at our hotel, call the manager and leave us in good hands. We thank them and they ask that we pass the kindness on, as they didn’t want anything from us besides our safety. An extremely humbling moment and a reminder of the shared experience that is life. Finally we are in Mpika. A small rural transit town that seems to be mostly kept alive by the endless flow of trucks going through the Zambian/Tanzanian border north of us. We enjoy some local beers and a home cooked meal at the simple village hotel while recapping on the epic ride over the day. We are now just over 100km or so from the Tanzanian border. We cannot wait for the moment we cross the border and change the scene. Our excitement is palpable. We live on the best continent in the world, we are governed by UBUNTU ✊🏿. *This piece is dedicated to those two fine men. May goodness find them wherever they are.

5th Jan 2018. Mbeya you hidden gem. EAC. It’s about 9am on a sunny bright day in the leafy suburbs of Mbeya. It turns out that Mbeya is surrounded by abundant natural beauty. Most notably we see there is a plethora of sites to visit from the Crater Lake nearby that includes a long guided hike in the thick forest through the Kitulo National Park that is teeming with wildlife, in order to get to the rim. However, we instead decide to ride to Mbeya Peak and take in the sights of the whole of Mbeya. We then go back to the centre of town and pick up local sim cards en-route to Dodoma in the centre of Tanzania. It’s about 600km away along the A104 but with no border crossing for the next two days we are in no rush. Tanzania is BEAUTIFUL! It is also HUGE. So we spend the rest of the day riding through small towns nestled against picturesque backdrops of natural beauty that never seem to end. By lunch time we have flown through several small towns including Chimala and Mafinga, and we are approaching Iringa. Iringa forms a fork in the road with one side heading north and the other taking you towards the East coast. We stop a massive truck -port at the foot of a hill. There's a clean, fresh breeze coming across. We grab a light meal and we plot the next leg of the trip. We notice a sign that says ‘Morogoro left’ and another that points us towards Dodoma in the opposite direction. I remember reading about the Morogoro Conference that was held by the ANC and has been heralded as one of the most important meetings for the organization in the struggle for freedom. We feel connected to the history of the earth beneath our feet. We can feel our heritage. We quickly see past the 300km mark for the day and then run into another pair of long distance bikers. A couple too. They see us, and we wave at each other and then proceed to ride alongside each other for a while. Eventually we all pull over and stop for a water break and a roadside chat. We find out that they are from Belgium and have been on the road for the past few weeks, coming from Cape Town en route to Kigali, Rwanda. We share travel stories and tips and tricks of the road so far. We exchange snacks and swop supplies. We end in waves, handshakes and hugs and we ride next to each other for the next 30 or so kilometres before they veer off the highway for the day and we shoot on. We are about 360km into the days ride after seeing the fellow riders and then suddenly the road ends completely. All along there had been spots of gravel and then tar and then gravel again. We had figured this was merely some road maintenance but eventually the tarmac didn’t return. We select the path to Dodoma and begin to climb a sharp steep. We ride for about an hour heading ascending. The climb is slow and dotted with various small villages every 10km or so. Eventually we summit and then begins a glorious sunset ride from around the small town of Nyang'oro. We catch what is a 'bikers dream section’ of the A104 that serpentines, bend after bend, as it winds down overlooking the Mtera Reservoir. Which is located at the confluence of the Great Ruaha and Kisigo Rivers within the Great Rift Valley in Tanzania. There are very few cars on the road at this point, so much so that we turn a sharp curve and find a troop of baboons occupying the road, in full ‘team grooming’ mode. We veer around them carefully yet briskly and we continue to enjoy another one and a half hours of the most magical ride overlooking the never ending and majestic plains of central Tanzania and the Great Rift Valley. The glorious views after making our way down end with a spectacular sight of the Mtera Reservoir as we cross over the bridge. As the sun sets and night kicks in, we ride into Dodoma district and still have another two hours or so riding in the pitch black dark of this unlit, sparsely occupied part of TZ. Most of the ride is spent chatting away about the beauty of today’s ride and how the chance encounter in Mbeya has really livened our spirits. Thanks goodness for the helmet comms. We have spent the past week or so really talking and connecting, a blessing on its own. Upon arriving at our hotel in Dodoma called ‘Dear Mama’, we learn that Dodoma is the national capital city of Tanzania, this being declared as far back as 1974. It was up until our visit that we learnt that it Dodoma was predominantly the capital by name, as most administrative functions remain in Dar Es Salam on the east coast as we had always known it to be. As we are told that the idea was to centralize the capital and thus make it more accessible to the rest of the nation. This has seen a lot of economic growth come to this previously sleepy town. Our hotel is a very interesting blend of Swahili and Arabic architecture and still finds a way of looking like a well lit fort in the night. We find that there’s a restaurant and entertainment spot next door to our hotel so we head there for dinner and drinks. We order some cold Serengeti beers and ugali na kuku. The rest of the evening is spent dancing and jamming to the much loved bongo flava tunes. All in all we have travelled over 3400 km. To be honest we are so absorbed by the journey at this stage we are no longer even counting.

4rd Jan 2018. SADC meets EAC. The usual 5am morning alarm gets us up. We make coffee as usual, then we sit outside in the vast lush green garden of the hotel. Secretly, we both hope to catch the gents from the day before as we had learnt that they had parked their truck at the hotel over night, but alas, by the time we get up they are long gone. With a smirk I remind Eagle that she might be a bird, but on this day she wasn't the earliest... Mpika is an interesting town as its just off the point where the Great North Road splits into three directions; one side leading to Kasama, Mbala, and Mpulungu on Lake Tanganyika, the other heading directly for the Tanzanian border. This makes it a convenient overnight stop as its a day’s travel from both the border to Tanzania, and equally, back to Lusaka. Interestingly enough the famous cross border train called the 'Tazara Railway' which goes between Zambia and Tanzania has a station just 5km outside Mpika. We ride out of Mpika and head for the border. Our plan for the day is to ride around 480km from Mpika, across the border into Tanzania and lay our heads in Mbeya for the night. There is a lot of excitement and anxiety as with every border crossing day. You never know what to expect. Meanwhile on the road, it’s piping hot with clear skies and a light cross breeze. About 90km shy of the border, we decide to pull over in what looks like the middle of nowhere. It's green as far as the eye can see. The sky is bright blue and not a single cloud is up there. Its peaceful. We see no-one else and decide to stop and just take it all in. Hardly 5 minutes later and a man approaches us out of the long grass. He says that his name is Michael and he invites us into his home for some shade. We oblige and he leads us into his great farm yard. We estimate Michael to be in his thirties. He is sitting under one of a couple of huge baobab trees lining this yard. He offers us water and we end up sitting with him for almost an hour playing with his children and chatting about our trip, what languages we speak and answering his questions about South Africa. He tells us that it hasn't been an easy couple of days as he had just lost his dear father, but some how feels we were meant to meet and glad we did because today he finally laughed for the first time after a week of confusion, sadness and mourning. His finds comfort as Eagle shares her grief and pain experience after losing her father and assures him that it really does get better with time. As we head out, curious about this camera we are carrying, he asks that we take some photos with him by our motorcycle while he offers us his bicycle to pose next to. We ask how we will share the pictures and he says he's certain our paths will cross again some day, we exchange hearty laughs, warm hugs and he waves us off. Our hearts are full. So is our petrol tank. Time to enter East Africa... The border between Zambia and Tanzania is the most interesting example of the difference between East Africa and its southern cousins. As we leave Zambia the most notable thing on the road was how far away from the side of the road the roadside stalls are allowed to operate. In Tanzania this is not the case, far from it. We stamp our passports out of Zambia, we go through that crazy middle land where you haven’t checked into Tanzania but you are out of Zambia. This distance of about 1km takes us about an hour to navigate. It’s untarred, there is heavy duty construction as they try build a new road and there are the most cars, trucks and vehicles we have seen in one location since beginning the journey. There are bicycles, there are pedestrians in droves, there are trucks teeming with product being hauled from Tanzania into Zambia and vice versa. There is in fact a traffic jam in between the two borders. We spend about 2 hours getting through all of the chaos. As we enter TZ, my ears tingle at the change of language. All of a sudden I can identify words like “ahsante”, ‘habari yako kaka?” and ‘’mzuri! mzuri!” which means all good in Swahili. We feel a sense of relief as we now know we are entering the 5th and penultimate country. We are still safe, and we are taking in the amazing nature of Africa and its people first hand, riding front to back.. together on two wheels. Tanzania has deep historical ties with South Africa. From hosting one of the first guerrillatraining camps for the legendary armed wing of the oldest liberation movement, 'Mkhontho weSizwe' fostered through the relationship between then Tanzanian President Julius Nyerere andlong serving head of the ANC, Oliver Tambo. So we feel home in Tanzania.It’s about 4pm when we get into the country and immediately the wide birth that we enjoyedbetween the road and the side lane is none existent now. The TZ side of the border is even BUSIER than the chaotic middle ground. Everything is for sale right on the side of the road.First stop we make is to get rid of our Zambian Kwachas for Tanzanian Shillings. We haveabout 102km to Mbeya. The busy, narrow roads mean we reduce our average speed from110km/h to about 70km/h. This makes this ride slow, however, we get to take in all the greeneryof the hillside villages of southern Tanzania as we leave Tunduma. It's also sunset so we catchthe most beautiful ride at golden hour. Glorious! We pull into Mbeya, a lush green town built between the Mbeya and Poroto Mountain ranges.We are too tired to take it all in immediately, so we shoot straight to our airbnb and settle in and what are the odds that the hosts are two young South African sisters? They offer us dinner and after a refreshing shower, we settle in to eat and they introduce us to their parents who have just also arrived on the day, all the way from Tanga in the north coast of Tanzania. We didn’t know it then but this night would end 7 hours later at 2am. We end up listening to the most amazing tale of how this young white family left South Africa, in the mid nineteen eighties, at the height of Apartheid after feeling they could no longer raise their kids in the separatist state. The father tells us of a night where God spoke to him and told him to prepare his family for a long journey to the east. A few months later, he had built a horse cart ready to be towed behind their car. With only two Namibian dollars to their name, the two parents, and the youngest sibling jump into the car and tow one of three horses they own. The other two teenage siblings ride their own horses behind the car and they begin, what would be a one and a half year journey from the South West to the final home in the East, Tanzania. With the two children on horseback, the other in car with all their belongings, the family began their journey to an unknown destination, while temporarily pausing at villages along the way, the Father kept hearing God speaking to him and telling him to 'head East' and so they would continue until they finally reached Mbeya, where they then settle for the next ten years and build a thriving church community along the way as the father of the household is also a pastor. They ask us about our journey and we find out that in fact they know the road we plan to take the next day very well, so they share much needed travel advice and routes. Astonishingly we carry on talking past midnight while sipping hot chocolate. We are wowed at the many perils they faced on the road but somehow overcame. We eventually retire to sleep and yet again we are pleasantly surprised and warmed by the many wonderful people we seem to be meeting along this journey of love. The next morning we go to the back of the house to see that one of the horses they rode back then is still alive! And the young teen daughter who travelled from Namibia to Tanzania on horseback is the young lady who welcomed us on arrival last night. We have breakfast together with our host family and the elderly couple enquire about our motorbike and tell us that they too, plan on getting into biking. They are well into their 60’s and my wife and I, steal a loving look as this beautiful senior couple feel inspired by our young love. They say that we remind them so much of their younger, braver selves. In this sprawling green garden in the south west of Tanzania, the four of us all embrace, young and old, black and white and hold hands as our elders lead us in prayer, asking that we be kept safe and for the Lord to extend us travel mercies. Eagle and I silently add acknowledgment to our ancestors who have brought us this far already.